Japan Diaries 4: Day 685

Day 685: September 17, 2023

Day 685: September 17, 2023

Sunday – 3-Day “Respect for the Aged” Road Trip D2

Guesthouse Ichibangai
Guesthouse Ichibangai - Kitami City

We started the day early again, just like yesterday, hoping to tick off all the places I carefully included in today’s ambitious itinerary. Honestly, I might have been a little too optimistic. The plan involved covering a 430-kilometer route—from Kitami City to Shiretoko Five Lakes in Shari, then south to Nemuro City, and westward to Kushiro City—intending to stop by every town along the way.

Checked out of Guesthouse Ichibangai
Checking out of Guesthouse Ichibangai

Checked out of Guesthouse Ichibangai, heading to the parking area to get Ruru
Heading to the parking area across the street to get Ruru

Of course, we soon realized that such a plan was far too much for one day. So we decided to be flexible and wrap up wherever we happened to be by 4 PM. That turned out to be a good call.

Back on the road for day 2 of our 3-Day “Respect for the Aged” Road Trip
Back on the road for day 2 of our 3-Day “Respect for the Aged” Road Trip

We bought breakfast to go at the McDonald’s along National Road 39 in Kitami City
We bought breakfast to go at the McDonald’s along National Road 39 in Kitami City

We checked out of Guesthouse Ichibangai at around 7:20 AM and began the second leg of our three-day journey. Before leaving Kitami, we made a quick stop at McDonald’s along National Road 39 to pick up food for the road.

Bihoro manhole cover
Bihoro manhole cover

Bihoro Station
Bihoro Station

Team Nicerio visits Bihoro Station

We didn't miss taking photos here for our memory bank.
We didn't miss taking photos here for our memory bank.

Bihoro Pokemon manhole cover
Bihoro Pokémon manhole cover

Our first destination was Bihoro (美幌町), where we visited Bihoro Station to check out the newly installed Bihoro Pokémon manhole cover. It was a quick stop, and we were soon on our way to the next town: Ozora (大空町).

Ozora manhole cover
Ozora manhole cover

Higashimokoto manhole cover
Former Higashimokoto town's manhole cover

Although we had explored Kitami City, Bihoro, and Ozora during our road trip last September, this time we decided to explore a different part of Ozora—specifically the area that used to be the town of Higashimokoto. There, we visited Higashimokoto Shrine and Roadside Station Nonky Land Higashimokoto.

Higashimokoto Shrine's Main Torii
Higashimokoto Shrine's Main Torii

Higashimokoto Shrine
Higashimokoto Shrine

There, we visited Higashimokoto Shrine, a quiet local shrine surrounded by trees, where we took a moment to offer a prayer and appreciate the peaceful atmosphere. We didn't stay long or take that many pictures, though, as there was an ongoing celebration in the shrine grounds. 

Roadside Station Nonky Land Higashimokoto
Roadside Station Nonky Land Higashimokoto

Roadside Station Nonky Land Higashimokoto stamp
Roadside Station Nonky Land Higashimokoto stamp

Afterward, we stopped by Roadside Station Nonky Land Higashimokoto, a small but welcoming place offering fresh local produce, handmade goods, and regional snacks. It was a great spot to take a short break, explore local products, and get a taste of the community’s agricultural roots. Before leaving, my daughter and I got the roadside station stamp for our collection.

Next town in our itinerary: Koshimizu (小清水町)
Next town in our itinerary: Koshimizu (小清水町)

Koshimizu Shrine's main torii gate
Koshimizu Shrine's main torii gate

Koshimizu Shrine
Koshimizu Shrine

From Ozora, we headed north to Koshimizu (小清水町), a beautiful agricultural town that we were visiting for the first time. One of our first stops was Koshimizu Shrine, where we took some time to explore the peaceful grounds and admire the traditional architecture. 

Driving through National Route 391
Driving through National Route 391

Hanayaka-Koshimizu Roadside Station
Hanayaka-Koshimizu Roadside Station

Koshimizu Roadside Station
I had a fun time taking photos with the bear near the entrance of the roadside station

Hama-Koshimizu Station stamp
Hama-Koshimizu Station stamp

Hanayaka-Koshimizu Roadside Station stamp
Hanayaka-Koshimizu Roadside Station stamp

After that, we made our way to the Hanayaka-Koshimizu Roadside Station, which offered a variety of local produce and souvenirs unique to the area. The roadside station also doubles as the Hama-Koshimizu Station of the JR Senmo Line

Furetoi Observation Deck
Furetoi Observation Deck as seen from the platform of Hama-Koshimizu Station

We had originally planned to go up to Furetoi Observation Deck, but since our baby Kai was peacefully asleep, we chose to skip it this time and save the experience for a future visit.

Shari manhole cover
Shari manhole cover

Next on the itinerary was Shari (斜里町), the town with the most scheduled stops on my list — and for good reason. There's so much to explore in this part of Hokkaido, and I was excited to see how many places we could visit before the day ended.

Shari Roadside Station
Shari Roadside Station

Team Nicerio at Shari Roadside Station
Family picture at Shari Roadside Station

Shari Roadside Station stamp
Shari Roadside Station stamp

Inside Shari Roadside Station
Inside the Shari Roadside Station

Our first stop was Shari Roadside Station, a convenient and well-maintained rest area with local products, snacks, and information for travelers. While we didn’t spend too much time here, we made sure to get our roadside station stamp for the Hokkaido Stamp Rally, something we’ve been collecting throughout our trip. It’s always fun to see the unique stamp designs representing each town.

Shari Shrine's torii gate
Shari Shrine's torii gate

Shari Shrine
Shari Shrine

Next, we visited Shari Shrine, a peaceful Shinto shrine surrounded by trees and located just a short drive from the roadside station. The shrine grounds were quiet and calming, with traditional wooden structures and stone lanterns adding to their charm. We offered a short prayer and took a few moments to appreciate the stillness of the place before moving on.

Road to the Sky Observatory
Road to the Sky Observatory

We then made our way to the Road to the Sky Observatory, one of the more iconic viewpoints in the region. The observatory offers a breathtaking view of the winding road below, famously known as the Road to Heaven.” The long, straight path seems to rise into the sky, creating a surreal visual effect that’s a favorite among photographers and road trip enthusiasts.

Road to the Sky
Road to the Sky

After taking in the views, we stopped at the starting point of the Road to the Sky, where travelers usually take commemorative photos before heading up or down the scenic route. It’s a simple stop, but it’s a significant one that marks the beginning (or end) of one of Hokkaido’s most photographed roads.

Oshinkoshin Falls (オシンコシンの滝)
Oshinkoshin Falls parking area

Team Nicerio visits Oshinkoshin Falls
Oshinkoshin Falls

Oshinkoshin Falls stamp from the souvenir shop
Oshinkoshin Falls stamp from the souvenir shop

Next was a visit to Oshinkoshin Falls (オシンコシンの滝), often referred to as one of the “Top 100 Waterfalls of Japan.” The powerful twin streams of water cascade down side-by-side and are easily accessible from the main road. We didn’t need to hike far, which was perfect since we were on a tight schedule. It was refreshing to stand near the falls and feel the cool mist in the air.

Roadside Station Utoro-Shirietoko
Roadside Station Utoro-Shirietoko

Shari Pokemon manhole cover design
Shari Pokemon manhole cover

Shari colored-manhole cover design
Shari colored-manhole cover

Roadside Station Utoro-Shirietoko stamp
Roadside Station Utoro-Shirietoko stamp

From there, we continued to Roadside Station Utoro-Shirietoko, another well-equipped roadside facility closer to the Shiretoko Peninsula. Like the earlier stop, we collected our Hokkaido Stamp Rally stamp, and we also checked out the selection of local seafood products and souvenirs. The roadside station had a great view of the nearby sea, and it was a nice place to take a short rest before diving into more sightseeing.

Shiretoko World Heritage Center
Shiretoko World Heritage Center

Saw this majestic deer near the parking area
Saw this majestic deer near the parking area

We got our Certificate of Entry to the Shiretoko National Park
We got our Certificate of Entry to the Shiretoko National Park

Ni Lake
Ni Lake

Team Nicerio visits Shiretoko National Park
Team Nicerio visits Shiretoko National Park

Shiretoko Five Lakes National Park
Elevated wooden walkway in the park

Finally, we arrived at one of the highlights of the entire trip: Shiretoko Five Lakes National Park. We opted for the Short Route Course, an elevated wooden path that allowed us to walk through part of the protected area without disturbing the delicate ecosystem. Surrounded by pristine forest and mountain views, the trail offered stunning reflections on the still waters of the lakes. It was quiet, peaceful, and truly awe-inspiring — a perfect way to wrap up our Shari adventure.

Shiretoko Pass
Shiretoko Pass

Shiretoko Pass is also the boundary between Shari and Rausu
Shiretoko Pass is also the boundary between Shari and Rausu

Shiretoko Pass View Point
Shiretoko Pass View Point

After finishing the course, we continued over the scenic Shiretoko Pass. Before leaving Shari, we took in the views from the Shiretoko Pass View Point, though Mt. Rausu was unfortunately hidden behind clouds.

Off to Rausu
Off to Rausu

Rausu Roadside Station
Rausu Roadside Station

Rausu Roadside Station stamp
Rausu Roadside Station stamp

Rausu Roadside Station
We rested a bit before heading to our next destination

Interestingly, the viewpoint sits on the boundary between Shari and Rausu (羅臼町), so we officially entered our first new town of the day. Once in Rausu, our first stop was the Rausu Roadside Station, a hub of local culture and marine-themed souvenirs. It’s not just a place to rest—it offers information about the UNESCO-listed Shiretoko Peninsula, known for its rich wildlife and dramatic landscapes. We also made sure to collect the roadside station stamp for our Hokkaido stamp rally.

Rausu Shrine
Rausu Shrine's main torii gate

Rausu Shrine

Rausu Shrine
Rausu Shrine

A short drive later, we visited the Rausu Shrine, a serene spiritual site nestled near the mountains. Surrounded by towering trees and peaceful surroundings, the shrine offered a moment of calm reflection in contrast to our busy travel schedule. This visit gave us a glimpse into the deep cultural heritage of the town, rounding off our short but meaningful stop in Rausu.

Seicomart Rausu
Seicomart Rausu

We got an inari sushi for our food on the road
We got an inari sushi for our food on the road

Driving from Rausu to Kushiro City
Driving from Rausu to Kushiro City

We made another stop at Seicomart Nakachanbetsu in Shibecha
We made another stop at Seicomart Nakachanbetsu in Shibecha

By the time we finished at the shrine, it was already past 5 PM. Realizing we couldn’t squeeze in the remaining towns, we decided to call it a day and even agreed to drop our original third-day plan. Instead, we’ll spend tomorrow revisiting the towns we couldn’t get to today. The drive to Kushiro City was long and tiring, so we made a few stops to fuel up and grab snacks. 

Kushiro City manhole cover design
Kushiro City manhole cover design

Check in at Stay @ Kushiro
Stay @ Kushiro

We finally arrived around 8 PM and checked in at Stay @ Kushiro—a budget-friendly converted old house. Not the most luxurious place, but it did the job.

Urutora Shokudo - Kushiro City
Urutora Shokudo

We ordered the butadon set meal
We ordered the butadon set meal

Dinner at  Urutora Shokudo
Itadakimasu!

Before ending the night, we drove out for dinner at Urutora Shokudo and enjoyed a delicious butadon. It was the perfect way to end a packed day.

Even though we didn’t accomplish everything we originally set out to do, I’m happy we revisited three familiar towns and explored three new ones. I’m looking forward to seeing what Day 3 will bring.


Read more:

Japan Diaries 4: Week 98
Japan Diaries 4: Weekend 98
Japan Diaries 4: Day 684
Roadside Station “Nonky Land Higashimokoto”
Koshimizu Shrine
Koshimizu Roadside Station
Shari Roadside Station
Chinju Shari Shrine
Road to the Sky
Oshinkoshin Falls
Roadside Station “Utoro-Shirietoku”
Shiretoko Five Lakes National Park
Shiretoko Pass View Point
Rausu Roadside Station
Rausu Shrine
Hokkaido Manhole Cover
A Guide to Collecting Eki Stamps
10 Things to Do in Kitami City
10 Things to Do in Bihoro
10 Things to Do in Ozora
10 Things to Do in Koshimizu
10 Things to Do in Shari
10 Things to Do in Rausu

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