Japan Diaries 4: Day 719

Japan Diaries 4: Day 719

Day 719: October 21, 2023

Saturday – Hiking Mt. Rishiri

Today was an early and eventful day as we embarked on our hiking adventure to Mt. Rishiri from the town of Rishirifuji (利尻富士町). Our alarm cut our sweet dreams short so that we could start preparing by 3:30 AM. We stumbled out of bed and managed to gather ourselves together within half an hour. We hastily devoured our breakfast, packed our belongings, and tidied up our beds before checking out of the Rishiri Island Campsite "Yuni."

We left the Rishiri Island Campsite "Yuni" very early.
We left the Rishiri Island Campsite "Yuni" very early.

甘露泉水
We filled our water bottles at Kanro Spring

乙女 橋
Otome Bridge

We did several rest stops along the way
We did several rest stops along the way

Darkness still enveloped the surroundings as we left the campsite at 4 AM, commencing our 40-minute walk towards Rishiri Hokuroku Campsite. This campsite served as the starting point for our hike through the Oshidomari Route of Mt. Rishiri.

Photos during our Mt. Rishiri Hike

Photos during our Mt. Rishiri Hike

Photos during our Mt. Rishiri Hike

Photos during our Mt. Rishiri Hike

Photos during our Mt. Rishiri Hike

To our surprise, we reached the first five stations quicker than expected. However, as we ascended, snow began to greet us, starting from the 5th station at an altitude of 610 meters, and continuing throughout. The snowy terrain necessitated the use of crampons, marking a significant change in the landscape.

Hiking through the snowy terrain of Mt. Rishiri

Hiking through the snowy terrain of Mt. Rishiri

Hiking through the snowy terrain of Mt. Rishiri

Hiking through the snowy terrain of Mt. Rishiri

鴛泊コース避難小屋
Oshidomari Course Shelter

Inside the Oshidomari Course Shelter
Inside the Oshidomari Course Shelter

Since we were the only ones on the mountain, there were no pre-existing tracks for us to follow. Our JTE-turned-guide, Matsushita-sensei, bravely paved the way through knee-deep snow, slowing our progress but ensuring we had a path. Despite the challenge, we pressed on.

Mt. Rishiri
We're almost at the peak

Mt. Rishirifuji
Time to head back down

As we approached the 9th station at an altitude of 1410 meters, we made the difficult decision to turn back instead of pushing for the peak. It wasn't due to exhaustion or fear, but the looming deadline of catching the last ferry back to Wakkanai City (稚内市) at 4:30 PM. If we missed it, we would be stranded for another day on the island.

We're back at Otome Bridge
We're back at Otome Bridge

Walking back to Rishirifuji town proper
Walking back to Rishirifuji town proper

We went to Rishiri Island Campsite "YŪNI" to get the stuff that we left behind for safe keeping
We went to Rishiri Island Campsite "YŪNI" to get the stuff that we left behind for safekeeping

Rishirifuji Hot Spring
Rishirifuji Hot Spring

Shūkei Pond
Shūkei Pond

Rishirifuji Shrine's torii gate
Rishirifuji Shrine's torii gate

We stopped by at a takoyaki stall to get our first hot meal for the day
We stopped by a takoyaki stall to get our first hot meal for the day

Cape Peshi
Cape Peshi

Rishiri Fantastic Road
Rishiri Fantastic Road

In hindsight, it was a wise choice. By approximately 3 PM, we had returned to the jump-off point. From there, it took us an additional hour to reach the Oshidomari Port Ferry Terminal

Rishirifuji manhole cover
Rishirifuji manhole cover

Oshidomari Port Ferry Terminal
Oshidomari Port Ferry Terminal

On the ferry ride back to Wakkanai City
On the ferry ride back to Wakkanai City

The one way trip costs 2650 yen
The one-way trip costs 2650 yen

The adrenaline rush from our hike seemed to fade away during the ferry ride, as I found myself succumbing to sleep. I hardly noticed the passing scenery until we arrived at Heartland Ferry Wakkanai Port

Yamaokaya Wakkanaiten
Yamaokaya Wakkanaiten

I ordered my favorite miso ramen
I ordered my favorite miso ramen

With our stomachs growling, we stopped for dinner at Yamaokaya Wakkanaiten before bracing ourselves for the long drive home. The road back to Tomamae felt endless, and though exhaustion pressed down on me, I couldn’t bring myself to leave Matsushita-sensei to drive alone. Instead, I stayed wide awake, taking on the role of co-pilot for the entire stretch.

After dropping Jon off at his house, we continued to Matsushita-sensei’s place, where I left my ever-reliable car, Ruru. From there, I faced one more challenge, an hour-long solo drive back to Rumoi City.

Looking back, the day drained every ounce of energy I had, but the fulfillment it gave me was far greater than the fatigue. Even though we fell short of reaching Mt. Rishiri’s summit, our spirits remained unshaken. If anything, this unfinished climb only deepened our resolve to return someday and stand on the peak that slipped away from us.


Read more: 

Japan Diaries 4: Week 103

Japan Diaries 4: Weekend 103

Mt. Rishirifuji

Rishiri Island Campsite Yuni

Shukei Pond

Rishirizan Shrine

Hokkaido Manhole Cover

10 Things to Do in Rishirifuji

10 Things to Do in Wakkanai City

10 More Things to Do in Wakkanai City

Hokkaido 179


Japan Diaries 4: Summary

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