Japan Diaries 4: Day 718

Japan Diaries 4: Day 718

Day 718: October 20, 2023

Friday – Tomamae x Rishirifuji

Obira Roadside Station
Obira Roadside Station

Toilet break at Obira Roadside Station
Toilet break at Obira Roadside Station

Tomamae Commercial High School 10.20.23
Tomamae Commercial High School 10.20.23

Rainy skies didn’t dampen our spirits as we set out for Rishirifuji. Unlike my usual school visits to Tomamae, today I headed to Tomamae Commercial High School, where my JTE, Matsushita-sensei, and fellow ALT, John, had planned a post-work excursion. On my way there, I made a brief stop at Obira Roadside Station in the town of Obira (小平町) for a quick toilet break. 

Matsushita-sensei made this plan
Matsushita-sensei made this plan

Matsushita-sensei even drove to the ferry port in Wakkanai.
Matsushita-sensei even drove to the ferry port in Wakkanai.

After a morning of teaching, which included a lively session of speaking games with the third-year students, our journey began in earnest. Matsushita-sensei drove us north to Wakkanai City (稚内市), where we boarded the Heartland Ferry to Oshidomari Port in Rishirifuji (利尻富士町).  As for my car, Ruru, I left it at Matsushita-sensei's place.

MS-09 DOM Wakkanai manhole cover
MS-09 DOM Wakkanai manhole cover

Heartland Ferry Wakkanai Port
Heartland Ferry Wakkanai Port

Rishiri and Rebun Island
Rishiri and Rebun Island

Rishirin, Atsumon, Rippukun, and Rippuchan - The mascots of the towns of Rishiri, Rebun, and Rishirifuji
Rishirin, Atsumon, Rippukun, and Rippuchan - The mascots of the towns of Rishiri, Rebun, and Rishirifuji

It's boarding time
It's boarding time

We waited only for a bit before boarding the ferry. The two-hour crossing was a surprisingly serene experience despite the rain and blustery winds. Standing on deck, I watched the waves ripple gently beneath us and the misty coastline drift by. The rhythmic motion of the ferry, the fresh sea air, and the distant calls of seabirds made the journey feel both calming and invigorating, providing a perfect introduction to the adventures that awaited us on the island.

Good bye for now, Wakkanai City
Goodbye for now, Wakkanai City

You can actually get a goshuin from the ferry
You can actually get a goshuin from the ferry

You can get a commemorative stamp at the ferry port and on the ship
You can get a commemorative stamp at the ferry port and on the ship

With the Tomamae Gang
With the Tomamae Gang

Inside the ferry
Inside the ferry

Mt. Rishiri is covered by clouds
Mt. Rishiri was covered by clouds

There were only a handful of visitors aboard so we were allowed to sit anywhere
There were only a handful of visitors aboard, so we were allowed to sit anywhere


Welcome to the town of Rishirifuji
Welcome to the town of Rishirifuji

Oshidomari Port Green Park Anchor Square
Oshidomari Port Green Park Anchor Square

Rishirifuji manhole cover #1
Rishirifuji manhole cover #1

Upon arrival, we explored Rishirifuji on foot, letting the island reveal its charm at a leisurely pace. Our first stop was Oshidomari Port Green Park Anchor Square, a serene waterfront park where the gentle sound of waves lapping against the pier created a calming backdrop. The park is dotted with sculptures and an old anchor monument, perfect for photos or simply soaking in the quiet harbor atmosphere.

Cape Peshi
Cape Peshi

From the ferry terminal, we caught a glimpse of Cape Peshi, its dramatic cliffs rising against the gray sky. Even from a distance, the rugged coastline and the waves crashing below created a striking impression, hinting at the island’s raw natural beauty.

The starting point of Rishiri Fantastic Road from the ferry terminal
The starting point of Rishiri Fantastic Road from the ferry terminal

Rishiri Fantastic Road
Rishiri Fantastic Road


Myokaiji
Myokaiji

There was this small shrine near Rishirizan Shrine
There was this cute, small shrine near the Rishirizan Shrine

As we continued to our next stop, we passed along the Rishiri Fantastic Road, enjoying several scenic views along the way. We also passed by Myokaiji, a local temple, and other interesting spots that showcased the island’s quiet charm.

Shukei Pond
Shukei Pond

We passed by Shukei Pond, hoping to enjoy its usual tranquil charm. However, we were disappointed to see that the water was dry and the area was poorly lit. Deciding not to linger, we continued on to the nearby shrine instead.

Rishirifuji manhole cover 2
Rishirifuji manhole cover 2

Rishirizan Shrine's torii gate
Rishirizan Shrine's torii gate

Rishirizan Shrine
Rishirizan Shrine

Near the pond was Rishirizan Shrine, a serene spiritual site tucked amidst trees on the slopes of the island. The shrine exudes a sense of history and reverence, with traditional architecture, small torii gates, and carefully maintained grounds. Even in the overcast weather, the quiet energy of the shrine offered a peaceful moment of reflection, connecting us to the local culture and traditions.

We made a wrong turn going to Rishiri Island Campsite “Yuni” but luckily there was a small path across the bushes that led us there.
We made a wrong turn going to Rishiri Island Campsite “Yuni,” but luckily, there was a small path across the bushes that led us there.

Rishiri Island Campsite “Yuni”
Rishiri Island Campsite “Yuni”

Waraukado
Waraukado

Inside Waraukado
Inside Waraukado

Kampai!
Kampai!

The restaurant is operated by only one man
The restaurant is operated by only one man

I ordered the ankake ramen
Ankake ramen

Itadakimasu!
Itadakimasu!

For accommodations, we stayed at Rishiri Island Campsite “Yuni,” where Matsushita-sensei had reserved a cozy cabin. After settling in, we walked back to the town center for dinner at Waraukado. The mapo tofu and ankake ramen were satisfying and warming. They were a perfect culinary cap to a day of sightseeing.

Rishirifuji Seicomart
Rishirifuji Seicomart

Evenings in Rishirifuji have a way of balancing practicality with simple pleasures. Before settling in, we stopped at Rishirifuji Seicomart, the island’s go-to convenience store, to stock up on breakfast for the following morning. The shelves were filled with familiar staples such as onigiri, sandwiches, and ready-to-eat meals that reminded us of the small comforts of everyday Japan, even on a remote island.

Rishirifuji Hot Spring
Rishirifuji Hot Spring

Rishirifuji Hot Spring
The day wouldn't be complete without taking a relaxing onsen dip

From there, we made our way to the Rishirifuji Hot Spring, where the warm waters of the onsen offered the perfect antidote to the day’s chill. Slipping into the bath, I felt the fatigue of travel dissolve as steam rose around us and the sound of trickling water filled the quiet room. The contrast between the cold, damp air outside and the soothing heat of the spring was deeply refreshing, leaving us both relaxed and recharged.

Back to Rishiri Island Campsite “Yuni”
Back to Rishiri Island Campsite “Yuni” 

We played one round of The Mind before calling it a day
We played one round of The Mind before calling it a day

Back at our cabin in the Rishiri Island Campsite “Yuni, the night closed on a lighter note. We gathered around the table and played several rounds of The Mind, a cooperative card game that tested not only strategy but also intuition. Each round was filled with laughter, playful frustration, and small victories that brought us closer together. It was a simple yet memorable way to end the evening, blending relaxation, camaraderie, and fun in true island fashion.

This week has been a seamless blend of work and travel. Beyond the island, I had the opportunity to serve as a judge at the Shosanbetsu Junior High School speech contest and visit Rumoi High School, Embetsu Agricultural High School, and Tomamae Commercial High School. Tomorrow promises an unforgettable adventure: hiking Mt. Rishiri, one of Japan’s most iconic peaks. For travelers seeking a mix of cultural encounters, natural beauty, and small-town charm, Rishirifuji is a destination that delivers all of this—and more.


Read more:

Japan Diaries 4: Week 103

Japan Diaries 4: Weekend 103

Obira Roadside Station 

Obira Roadside Station Revisited 2022

Rishirizan Shrine

Rishirifuji Shukei Pond 

Rishiri Island Campsite ”Yuni”

Rishirifuji Hot Spring

Hokkaido Manhole Covers

Japan's Awesome Manhole Covers

10 Things to Do in Wakkanai City

10 More Things to Do in Wakkanai City

10 Things to Do in Rishirifuji

Hokkaido 179

Japan Diaries 4: Summary

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